Brutalist Aesthetics Transformed into Timepiece: Wearable Art Showcasing Uncompromising Design Elements
Modern Luxury Timepieces: A Brutalist Homage
Here's a peculiar query: can upscale watches get a Brutalist touch? After all, some timepieces have a military origin, engineered for efficiency in harsh settings. But do they channel the raw, unpolished spirit of Brutalist architecture?
Not exactly. Most predate the term's coining, and their sleek, luxurious appeal seldom mirrors the brutal concrete structures we associate with the movement. The extravagance of a Bovet or a Breguet pales in comparison to the industrial simplicity of Brutalism—except, perhaps, when it comes to the price.
Yet, certain forward-thinking watchmakers have recently paid tribute to Brutalist design, creating timepieces that hark back to the concrete car parks and concrete-hewn monoliths revered by architects.
AP, Toledano & Chan, and the Brutalist Homage
The bourgeois-friendly Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) defines Brutalism as a style focusing on materials, textures, and construction. Sounds familiar, watch world? Brutalism's material of choice—beton brut—is a favorite among architects like Le Corbusier, who hails from the Swiss town of La Chaux de Fonds, a hub of traditional watchmaking.
With its exposed air vents and chimney stacks, the "emphasis on construction" differed from the meticulous attention to detail watchmakers usually employ. Still, several contemporary watchmakers have taken inspiration from Brutalism, crafting timepieces that echo its raw energy.
Audemars Piguet's [Re]Master 02 exemplifies this approach, touted as a "tribute to Brutalism." Unveiled in 2020, the watch nods to the brand's 1960 reference 5159BA. Its sharp edges, multi-faceted crystal display, and unusually proportioned casing challenge traditional horological conventions. Though in well-trodden Audemars Piguet territory in terms of opulence, the design's rough edges and raw materials make for an undeniable Brutalist influence.
New York- and Hong Kong-based indie brand Toledano & Chan make the most convincing case for a link between watches and Brutalist aesthetics, with their debut design, the B/1. The watch is a direct tribute to the Met Breuer building in New York, particularly its asymmetric, projecting windows.
Though the B/1 doesn't shy away from lavish touches like polished bracelets and mother-of-pearl dials, it manages to Stay True to the core spirit of Brutalist architectural design. Co-founder Phil Toledano explains, "Architecture is closely related to watch nerdery."
Richard Mille, another high-profile watchmaker, recently updated its RM 16-02 Extra Flat watch, describing it as wearing a "resolutely Brutalist style with its straight lines and monolithic structure." The revamped design ditches curved lines for a geometric, Brutalist look.
Smaller watch brands also dabble in Brutalist-inspired designs, albeit to varying degrees:- Kollokium clouds raw materials and minimalist design for a Brutalist vibe.- Ochs & Junior nods to Brutalism with its rectangular, monolithic timepieces.- Lebond and Alto incorporate rugged, minimalist elements and geometric casing for a Brutalist flair.
These experimental designs suggest that, while luxury watchmaking and Brutalism may seem worlds apart, there's potential for exciting fusion between the two.
Chris HallA freelance writer and editor who specializes in watches and luxury goods, Chris Hall's work has graced prestigious platforms such as the New York Times, Financial Times, Esquire, Wired, Wallpaper and more. He is also the mastermind behind The Fourth Wheel, a popular newsletter dedicated to the world of watches.
- The watch collection of a fashion-and-beauty enthusiast might include the B/1 by Toledano & Chan, a timepiece that pays homage to the raw, industrial style of Brutalist architecture.
- As the luxury watch industry continues to evolve, home-and-garden-inspired designs draw inspiration from Brutalism, with brands like Kollokium using raw materials and minimalist aesthetics to create Brutalist-inspired timepieces.
- In the realm of entertainment, Chris Hall, a watch specialist and editor, explores the fascinating fusion between luxury watchmaking and Brutalist architecture, showcasing various sports watches with Brutalist designs in his blog posts.
