Experience Rome in the heart of Highbury at Lupa restaurant
Nestled in the heart of North London, at 73 Highbury Park, London N5 1UA, lies a culinary gem named Lupa. Co-owned by Ed Templeton, who lived in Rome in his early 20s, and actor Theo James, Lupa is an intimate, 28-seat venue that aims to bring the vibrant atmosphere of a backstreet trattoria to London while maintaining a contemporary, cozy ambiance.
The restaurant's name, Lupa, is reminiscent of the Campo de' Fiori in Rome, with the exterior painted in an ochre colour that reflects this Roman theme. The original Victorian features of the former shop have been complemented by contemporary fittings, creating a unique blend of old and new.
The menu at Lupa, designed by Milan-raised chef Naz Hassan, formerly head chef at Pidgin in London, offers a delightful mix of Roman-inspired classics and seasonal specials. Signature dishes include hand-rolled pasta such as carbonara and cacio e pepe, lamb cutlets grilled to perfection, and vegetable-focused plates like carciofi alla romana (artichoke hearts braised in white wine, olive oil, and garlic). For match days near Arsenal stadium, thick-cut porchetta sandwiches are available for takeaway.
The service at Lupa is relaxed, allowing diners to enjoy their meal in a casual yet refined setting. Valentine Benoist has designed vases to sit atop each candlelit table, adding a touch of elegance to the low-lit vibe of the restaurant. The walls and terracotta tones further reinforce the Roman theme.
Since its opening, Lupa has received mixed but generally positive attention from critics. The atmosphere is praised for being warm and detailed, creating a feeling of care and informality. However, some criticism has been directed towards an uneven execution on certain dishes, such as an underpowered all'amatriciana and mushy tomatoes in a carpaccio dish. Nevertheless, the food is described as flawed but likeable.
Despite these minor hiccups, Lupa is seen as a promising addition to London’s dining scene, especially appealing to those fond of Roman comfort food with a modern twist. Co-owners Ed Templeton and Theo James, along with chef Naz Hassan, have certainly succeeded in bringing a taste of Rome to the heart of North London.
At 73 Highbury Park, London N5 1UA, Lupa not only offers a contemporary dining experience but also a taste of Rome through its food-and-drink menu. The restaurant's lifestyle, with its Rome-inspired home-and-garden design, provides customers a unique blend of old and new, creating an intimate, cozy atmosphere.
